When you’re just starting out with at-home hair coloring, you’ll quickly come across a lot of products and numbers that might be confusing at first. One of the most essential components in the coloring process is the developer, and one of the most commonly used developers is 20 volume. If you're wondering, what is 20 volume developer and how do you use it for best results?, you're in the right place.
In this guide, we’ll dive into everything beginners need to know about 20 volume developer, from how it works to how to use it safely and effectively to get the color you want.
What is 20 Volume Developer?
The developer is a creamy, peroxide-based product that activates hair color and allows it to penetrate the hair shaft. In other words, without developer, your hair color wouldn’t last or cover the hair evenly. The “20 volume” refers to the developer’s strength or concentration. It’s usually expressed as a percentage of hydrogen peroxide—20 volume is equivalent to 6% hydrogen peroxide.
20 volume developer is a middle-strength option, which means it can open the hair cuticle just enough for the color to deposit effectively, without too much risk of over-processing or damage when used correctly. This 20 volume developer is a good example of a professional-grade option with added conditioners for gentle lightening.
What Does 20 Volume Developer Do to Your Hair?
20 volume developer serves several different purposes in hair coloring and lightening. Here’s how it can be used:
- Gray Coverage: It’s strong enough to cover gray hair, which typically needs more help to fully absorb color.
- Lightening: It can lift the hair color by one to two shades, which is ideal if you’re looking for a subtle lightening effect.
- Color Deposit: When mixed with semi-permanent or permanent color, it helps deposit color evenly throughout the hair.
When you’re just starting out, knowing exactly what you’re trying to achieve can help you decide if 20 volume developer is the right choice. For instance, if you’re just aiming to cover grays or achieve a slightly lighter shade, this developer will likely be ideal.
Beginner's Guide: How to Use 20 Volume Developer for Hair Color
Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to mix hair dye with 20 volume developer and apply it for the best results:
- Gather Your Supplies: You’ll need your 20 volume developer, your chosen hair dye, a mixing bowl, a hair dye brush, gloves, and an old towel to protect your clothes.
- Mix the Dye and Developer: The most common mixing ratio for 20 volume developer is 1:1 with permanent hair color. For example, if you’re using 50 ml of dye, mix it with 50 ml of 20 volume developer. Make sure the mixture is smooth.
- Apply the Mixture: Using a hair dye brush, apply the mixture evenly, starting from the roots and working your way down. This helps ensure you get even coverage.
- Wait and Process: Follow the recommended processing time on your hair dye instructions, usually 30-45 minutes. Remember, leaving the color on longer won’t necessarily make it more effective and can risk damage.
- Rinse and Condition: After the processing time, rinse your hair with lukewarm water and condition it well. Skip shampooing for the next 24 hours to let the color settle.
How to Lighten Hair with 20 Volume Developer Safely
If you’re wondering how to lighten hair with 20 volume developer safely, remember that this developer strength is best for lightening natural hair colors by one or two shades. For instance, if you’re a dark blonde and want to become a light blonde, 20 volume can help you achieve this gentle lift without needing bleach.
Here’s a quick breakdown of lightening with 20 volume developer:
- Mixing: Use the same 1:1 mixing ratio of developer to dye.
- Application: Start from the mid-lengths and work your way to the roots. The roots process faster due to the scalp’s warmth.
- Timing: Do not exceed the recommended processing time to avoid potential damage.
Using 20 Volume Developer for Gray Hair Coverage
One of the most popular uses of 20 volume developer is to cover gray hair. Since gray hair is more resistant to color, 20 volume provides the necessary lift and penetration to ensure full coverage. For stubborn grays, you might also want to add a bit more processing time (within the dye’s safe range) for better color hold.
20 Volume Developer vs. Other Developer Strengths
When you’re choosing a developer, it helps to understand how 20 volume developer compares to 10 volume and 30 volume:
- 10 Volume Developer: Best for slight color deposit or darkening natural hair. It doesn’t lift, so it’s not ideal if you’re looking for a lighter shade.
- 20 Volume Developer: Ideal for one to two levels of lightening and effective for gray coverage. Great for both depositing color and subtle lightening.
- 30 Volume Developer: Used for lifting color by up to three shades. This is a stronger developer and generally used for more dramatic color changes.
Choosing the right volume will depend on your starting hair color and the level of lightening or coverage you want. If you’re a beginner, 20 volume developer is often the most versatile and forgiving option to start with.
Common Questions and Tips for Beginners Using 20 Volume Developer
1. Can you use 20 volume developer alone?
No, 20 volume developer should be mixed with a hair color or lightening product. On its own, developer doesn’t have any coloring power.
2. How often can you use 20 volume developer?
It’s best to wait at least 4-6 weeks between applications to avoid over-processing and damaging your hair.
3. What if my hair feels dry after using 20 volume developer?
Using a moisturizing conditioner and regular deep conditioning treatments can help restore softness and hydration.
4. What happens if I leave 20 volume developer on for too long?
Leaving it on too long can lead to over-processing, resulting in dryness, breakage, and a higher chance of scalp irritation. Stick to the recommended processing time.
Top Tips for Using 20 Volume Developer Without Damaging Your Hair
Here are some top tips for using 20 volume developer safely:
- Do a Patch Test: Always do a patch test to ensure you won’t have any allergic reactions.
- Follow Instructions: Stick closely to the recommended ratios and processing times for best results.
- Moisturize and Care: Before coloring, ensure your hair is well-moisturized to reduce the chances of it drying out. Afterward, follow up with a nourishing conditioner.
- Use High-Quality Products: Choosing a professional-grade 20 volume developer, like Key West Professional Cream Developer 6%, can help you achieve great results while minimizing the risk of damage.
Final Thoughts: Is 20 Volume Developer Right for You?
20 volume developer is a versatile tool in the world of hair coloring, and it’s often the ideal choice for beginners. If you’re looking to cover grays, go a shade or two lighter, or achieve rich color, 20 volume developer might be perfect.
For first-timers, start with a simple application on a small section of hair to get a feel for how the developer works and to avoid any unexpected results. Once you’re comfortable, 20 volume developer will become a staple in your at-home hair coloring kit.
With the right knowledge and care, you can confidently use 20 volume developer to achieve beautiful, long-lasting color.